Hello out there, I hope your having an excellent week!
For this issue I thought it would be interesting to talk about the Mexican flag and the relationship it has with Mexican food. Although you may be wondering what I´m talking about there are two Mexican legends that link the Mexican flag with the gastronomy of the country.
The Spanish writer Juan de Balanso in his book “The Hollow Crowns” (Las coronas huecas), claims that in 1821 General Agustin de Iturbide- the polemic general who made Mexico an independent nation and later proclaimed himself an emperor- while at the town of Iguala, saw a slave drop a watermelon on the floor. When the watermelon broke he saw the colors – the green shell, the red pulp and a whitish color that separated the green and red colors- and thought that he could use those colors to create the flag of the three guarantees. Each color symbolized the precepts that the new Mexican nation held to be dear: The green symbolized independence from Spain, the White symbolized Catholicism as the official religion of Mexico and the red was meant to symbolize the union between Mexicans and Europeans. These are the colors that are still used in the Mexican flag, although the meaning of the colors has changed throughout the years.
On May 18 1822 Agustin de Iturbide was proclaimed Emperor of Mexico, and as Emperor Augustine I he visited Puebla for his saints day that year which was August 28, a festivity still celebrated in the Catholic Church as the day of Saint Augustine of Hippo. According to the legend, the Emperor visited the convent of St. Monica, a convent which followed the Augustinian rule and who claimed St. Augustine of Hippo´s mother, Monica, as their protectress. The nuns were delighted to have such an important guest and they created a desert that would honor the colors he had chosen for the Mexican flag.
The plate which they created is called “chiles en nogada”. The nuns used the poblano chile, stuffed it with fruits covered it with a nut sauce which represented the white stripe of the flag , sprinkled pomegranate seeds which represented the red stripe of the flag and also sprinkled coriander which represented the green stripe all the colors of the proud new Mexican empire´s flag. We don´t know whether the Emperor enjoyed the chiles en nogada or not, it is not recorded by history or legend; what is true is that the people from Puebla have eaten chiles en nogada ever since but not served as desert, it is considered the main entrée and it is not only stuffed only with fruit it can contain meat and other ingredients. It is a seasonal dish, which is served in the month of August, and August 28 is considered the day when they should be eaten to commemorate St. Augustine. But the dish not only commemorates the Saint from Hippo but the creation of a Mexican identity, united by the colors of the Mexican flag.